I could follow the process as per the monitor panel, cut a hole, bezel, the put a cover (speaker cloth, not perspex), but I want to be cheap and I think my process is a bit more artistic, and reminiscent of the cabs I played on many, many, many years ago. Put simply, I'll break apart some cheap (but reasonable quality - it's not as if arcade games have hi-def sound) speakers that I got from eBay for a fiver ($10), cut a wooden panel, drill lots of small holes to let the noise out, paint it, install the speakers behind the small holes to let the noise out, and install it.
The process:
- Bust open! some cheap speakers, and save all the insides, tossing way the plastics - PHOTO
- Cut a panel to size - this panel will be mounted at 45 degrees so for an average 5'-6' (1.5m-1.8m) person it should point at the face/ears
- Draw out my speaker-holes-pattern on the panel - I've set my trusty compass the max width of the speakers, spun a circle, reduced the radius by 1cm, spin the circle, reduce, and so on until I have a bunch on concentric circles - repeat for the other speaker.
- Draw intersection lines at 0, 22.5, 45, 67.5, and 90 degrees - then draw some crosses when lines intersect without cramming too many holes too close together -
- Down to the bench-drill, and with a 3mm bit, drill all these little holes, then slightly countersink them on the facing side for aesthetics.
- A coat of MDF primer later, and the counter sunk sections have swollen - this is fibreboard I remind myself, and my countersink must be a bit blunt - DO THIS DIFFERENTLY - perhaps a sharper, larger drill bit inside of the countersink would have a better effect. Some careful sanding and re-drilling of my little holes and I'm ready for 2 coats of matt black -
- This paint I'm using is pretty thick stuff, and I don't want to brush it into the carefully constructed little holes as it'll surely clog, so I'll get a good permanent marker and fill in the bits of wood inside the countersinks that the paint. missed.
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